Pigment Dyeing – Blog

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers of cotton and polyester. Yarn is widely use in making fabric for clothing, in knits and woven.

Kinds of Yarn

Commonly yarn has two types Combed and carded, these are known as because of machine types.

1. Combed is fine form of yarn, Combed yarn developed on combed yarn spinning machine.
2. Carded yarn developed on carded spinning machine.

Other Yarns

CF Yarn (Contamination Free Yarn):

It is very fine form of yarn, which is widely used in making white garments.

Organic Cotton Yarn (Synthetic Free Cotton):

Organic cotton grown in very natural environment, it is urea and chemical free cotton.

Magnitude or Grade of Yarns:

Yarn starts from the 7/S (7 single) it is very thick yarn, widely use in making draw cords, twill tape etc, then less thicker yarn is 10/S (10 single), 12/S, 16/S, 18/S, 20/S, 22/S, 24/S, 26/S, 30/S, 32/S, 34/S, 36/S, 40/S, 60/S.

20/S, 26/S which are commonly use in fabrication of cloths. For fine fabric manufacturer goes to the 30/S, 40/S which are expensive and very fine yarn counts. Other special counts are 40 Double (40/2) etc.

Magnitude in Polyester Yarn:

It is widely use in the construction of fleece fabric, and other fabrics if required, The thinnest polyester yarn count is 10D (10 Denier) as the figures goes up the count size goes to thicker i.e 30D, 40D etc.

Common Polyester yarns are 50D, 75D, 100D, 150D, 175D, 200D, 250D, and 300D.

Fabrics

Commonly two types of fabrics (Cloths) are known.

1. Knitted
2. Woven

Knitted fabric:

Knitted cloths fabricated or knitted on circular knitting machine, The structure of knitted fabric is interloped (Loop), The technique of knitting base on Dia (26”, 28”, 34”, 36”, 42”) gauge, came (Knit, Tuck, Rest) and stitch length.

The fabric recognize through the interloped, Wales and Coarse.

The knitted fabric weighted through GSM (Gram per square meter) and KG, It is found in tubular form.

Kinds of knitting machine:

• Circular Knitting Machine
• Warp Knitting machine
• Flat Knitting machine

Circular knitting machine Brands:

• Fukuhara
• Orizio
• Peilan
• Mayer & Cie

Kinds of Knitted fabric:

• Jersey (Single Jersey, Double Jersey)
• Pique (Single tuck pique, Double tuck pique)
• Interlock
• French terry
• Fleece (2end Fleece, 3end fleece)
• Pique fleece
• Thermal, Baby waffle
• Hearing bone
• Pop cone
• Plated Jersey
• Velour
• Tight knit
• Lycra Rib (Specially use in Cuff and Collar)

Woven Fabrics (Clothes)

Woven fabric constructed on weaving machine, which are known as loom. The structure of fabric known as interlace. These fabrics recognize by WAFT(^) and WEFT(>), these fabrics are in open width form, and measurement by yard and meter.

Weaving Machines:

• Power loom
• Shutter less Loom
• Hand loom (Khaddi)
• Rapper loom
• Air jet loom
• Water jet loom

Kinds of woven fabric:

• Denim, Twill
• Canvas
• Lenin
• Satin
• Shitting
• Poplin
• Drill
• Khadder etc.

Step 1: Role cutting into panels for normal washing or shrinkage control process

Step 2: Normal washing for shrinkage control

Step 3: Panel cutting for garment stitching with numbering

Step 4: Bundle of garment pieces for stitching

Step 5: Garment stitching

Step 6: Garments are ready for pigment dyeing after cropping thread and turn off from the front

Step 7: Scouring or half bleach processing for pigment dyeing

Step 8: After pigment dyeing

Step 9: Tumbling for frosting process

Step 10: Pigment dyed garment after wet process and dry process, ready for finishing process

Step 11: Shade variation in pigment dyed garments considered as family

Step 12: Another view of shade variation

Step 13: Sorting of garments shade wise, ready for packing

Vintage look is the fashion symbol of the current time, It is perfect look for casual wear, which attracts young people and rough and tough people.

Pigment dyeing is a process which provides stream line to vintage look fashion industry and perfect source to produce high quality and attractive look garments.

Production technique:

Pigment dyeing applies through garment dyeing process, the procedure to make pigment dyed garments is simple, first cut the roll into panel of 2 meters and apply normal wash process and tumble dry the panel for shrinkage control, then cut the panels and stitch it and transform into garment and give it for pigment dyeing.

Production technique for pigment dyeing:

1. Cut the role in two meter panels for normal wash, It will control shrinkage.
2. After tumble dry process, Cut the panel according to pattern and stitch the garment.
3. After stitching the garment cut all the thread (cropping).
4. Then turn-off the garments from the front to the back, for safe the garment from the holes in Pigment dyeing process.
5. Then give the garments to the dyer for pigment dyeing.

Pigment Dyeing procedure:

Pigment dyeing process apply through the garment dyeing technique. (garment dyeing is the semi-exhaust dyeing process for cellulose fiber garments)

1. Scouring (Half bleach) the garments through caustic soda then rinse the garment with the normal water.
2. Take new water and make it soft with the acidic acid.
3. Apply pigment dyes with the dyeing recipe ratio.
4. After the wet process, tumble dry the garment for curing the dyeing.
5. After the dry process, put the garment in to the garment dyeing machine (winch) for the bio-polish enzyme to remove the unfix dyes and developing the frosting look.
6. After the washing process, tumble dry the garment.

Precautions:

1. Always cut the panel for stitching the garment should be from the same panel and role, it will control front-back variation.
2. Always use polyester greige (grey or undyed) stitching thread 40/2, Pigment dyeing over-lap on the polyester thread, it will reduce the broken stitch ratio in the wet process.
3. Use ball point needle for all kind of garment dyeing.
   

   Stitching Machine	Needle type	S/Jersey & Pique	Fleece
   SINGER	BALL POINT NEEDLE	DB11, DB9	DB14
   Flat look		DV 11 X 75, DV9	DV14
   Over lock		DC 11 X 75 X 9	DC14
   Button hole / Kaj		TQ5
   Bartek		DV 9	DV 16

4. Never deep cut the thread, after stitching the garment, the stitches will not break in the garment dyeing.
5. Never use spray guns during finishing the garments.

Properties of Pigment dyed garments:

1. Shade variation is compulsory in every lot.
2. They have good light fastness.
3. It cannot bleed in Chlorine bleach.
4. After every wash, they show more frosting look and vintage look.
5. Pigment dyeing easily give tinting on polyester thread.

Environmental Friendly:

1. Lead free dyeing.
2. Soft water dyeing.
3. Salt free and Soda free dyeing.
4. Pigment dyed garments cool in summers and warm in winters.